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i NOV ni^L}^ 

JAQUES & MARCUS, 

JEWELERS, 

857 Broadwa--, cor. 17TH Street, 

NtW-YORK. 



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Copyright, 1891, by 
Jaques & Marcus. 



tHf! 01 VINNL PR BS. 




No. 1. 







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PEARLS. 

EARLS, as seen in jewelry, are so familiar that one 
is apt to think of them but vaguely as the product 
of the pearl-oyster, and little thought is given to 
the causes which unite to produce them, or to the 
marvelous development of these daintiest of all jewels. A few 
words describing their formation may therefore prove interesting. 
When the large pearl-oyster (Meleagrina margaritifera) is lying 
on the bottom of the sea, his beautiful shells parted to permit the 
influx of the food-particles which are brought to him by the tides 
and currents, he is liable to receive unwelcome substances, such 



as small shell-fish, grains of sand, or bits of seaweed. These he 
usually ejects by the muscles and fibers which form his natural 
protection from such intruders. But occasionally an obstinate 
particle resists all attempts at ejectment, and, remaining, causes 
a constant irritation of the delicate substance of the oyster's flesh. 

Unable to rid himself of the foreign body, he proceeds to 
render it innocuous by covering it with nacre, or carbonate of 
lime — the smooth substance of which his own iridescent shell is 
made — and thus a pearl is formed. 

Pearls may be divided, for the purposes of this sketch, into two 
kinds : the pearl proper, and the pearly growths which are formed 
on the inner surface of the shell. 

The true pearl is formed when the nucleus remains in the actual 
folds of the body of the oyster. In this case the nacre is deposited 
all around the nucleus (whether a grain of sand, or an ovum of the 
mollusk itself) in thin layers, so deftly applied that a solid perfect 
sphere is formed. Coat after coat of this lovely substance is added 
year by year, and thus the pearl increases in size. The second kind 
of pearl is formed when an intruding object lodges between the 




No. 6. 



flesh of the oyster and the shell. In this case the oyster, being only 
concerned about the surface which frets his body, overlays the irri- 
tant with pearl and secures it to the shell. In this way the attached 
pearls which seem to be growing up from the shell are developed. 

These adhering pearls form peculiar excrescences and assume 
various singular shapes. At times they cover a tiny crab and are 
small and semi-spherical, looking exactly like a half pearl glued to 
the inner surface of the shell. Again, when a bit of seaweed is 
covered, there may be a formation several inches long, wavy and 
undulating, but glistening and bright as the pearl itself. 

The illustrations of pearl-oyster shells printed herewith show 
some specimens from a wonderful collection which was secured by 
Messrs. Jaques & Marcus. These shells were collected by a lover 
of pearls during a period of thirty years. The protuberances on the 
inside, all showing the beautiful rainbow hues of the natural iri- 
descence of the shells, were of such strange and singular forms that 
it occurred to him that they might be utilized by an artist to bring 
out some animal or human form. It was simply necessary to paint 
gauze wings on a pearl formation shaped like a caterpillar to give it 



the appearance of a magnificent silvery dragon-fly. An elliptical 
one was readily furnished with fins and tail, and at once became a 
pearl " whale." Mermaids with protruding breasts and symmet- 
rical bodies, birds, and other creatures, were skilfully painted on 
the insides of the curious shells, and each one of them became a 
work of art. 

Each one of these shells, thus decorated, is a unique gem of 
beauty, with its many-colored rays of glowing light as a background, 
and a magnificent irregularly shaped pearl constitutes the central 
part of every picture. 




-No. I 1 




CATALOGUE. 

No. I. POUTER PIGEONS. 

The large pouter pigeon in the group here shown is a figure of unusual inter- 
est. The pearl which forms the body is a large hemisphere of great beauty. It 
stands boldly out from the shell, as will be seen in the illustration No. i. 

No. 3. MOTHER EARTH. 
An allegorical picture representing a mother and three nursing children. The 
breast is formed by a natural pearl. 



No. 3. CUPID. 

Cupid stands at rest with bow and quiver, regarding the result of his last shot 
— two hearts transfixed by an arrow. The hearts are a natural pearl formation, 
but as perfect as if artificially carved. 



No. 4. VENUS. 

A LARGE open shell resting on the waves serves as a background for a beauti- 
fully painted figure of Venus. The breast is represented by an exquisite round 
pearl. 

No. 5. MERMAID. 

A SMALL shell representing a mythical marine scene — a mermaid disporting in 
the ocean. The figure is painted, but the breasts are natural pearls adhering to 
the shell. 

No. 6. NEPTUNE. 

Neptune with crown and trident. The entire body is formed by a large lus- 
trous pearl. The anatomy is suggested by the pearl growth. Illustration No. 
6 shows this wonderful production of nature. 



No. 7. MERMAN. 

Very little has been done by the artist to produce this picture — a head and 
arm merely being added in color. The natural pearl formation suggests the entire 
body perfectly, and stands in very high relief. 

No. 8. APHRODITE. 

A DOLPHIN supporting a shell in which is a kneeling figure of Venus. Twii. 
pearls form the breasts of this charming figure. 




No. 16. 



No. 9. MERMAN. 

The body, shoulder, and part of the arm and tail of the merman are formed 
by a large pearl, uncommonly iridescent. 

No. 10. MERMAID. 

A MERMAID arranging her long tresses is the subject of this pleasing picture. 
Twin pearls form the breasts. 

No. II. VENUS. 

A BEAUTIFUL figure of Venus, borne through the water by two sea-gods, makes 
a very pretty and interesting picture. Two pearls form the breasts of this figure. 
The picture is the subject of illustration No. 1 1 . 

No. 12. TERPSICHORE. 

A DAINTY figure representing the " Muse of the Dance and Roundelay." The 
breasts are formed by two pearls. 

No. 13. NIGHT. 

A FIGURE of Night floating in the clouds — a city in the distance. The breast 
is a lovely pearl. 

No. 14. ARIADNE. 

Seated on a tiger is a charming figure of Ariadne. Twin pearls form the 
breasts, and a third pearl makes a lily which grows by the roadside. 

9 



No. 15. RAM'S HEAD. 

The very remarkable pearl growth in this shell stands in very bold relief. 
It represents perfectly a ram's head and neck. The artist simply added eyes and 
horns, and thus completed the picture. 

No. 16. PHEASANT. 

The largest pearl formation in the collection represents an English pheasant. 
The body, one leg, and part of the neck are in relief. The pearl is over five 
inches long, and is particularly lustrous. The illustration No. 16 gives an idea ot 
this charming picture, but it is impossible to reproduce the luster and iridescence 
of the pearl. 

No. 17. STAG. 

A LARGE stag and doe, with background of Highland scenery. A pearl stand- 
ing boldly out from the shell forms the head of the stag. 

No. 18. PATRIARCH. 

Here the weird pearl formation makes the head of an old man. The perfect 
profile and long flowing beard stand in high relief, and all that the artist has done 
is to paint in the background. 

No. 19. PHEASANT. 

This most attractive picture shows an English moor with low shrubs and 
weeds, and with a large white pheasant in the foreground. The entire body of 
the bird is one large, lustrous pearl. 




No. 21. 



No. 20. MERMAN. 
A MERMAN with paddle. The body is formed by the natural pearl. 

No. 21. DRAGON-FLY. 
This i^ one of the most wonderful pieces in this unique collection A sequence 
of nine pearls, as well graduated as if selected for the purpose, form the head and 
body of the dragon-fly. The addition of a delicate tracery of color for the wings 
and a spear of grass, was all that was needed to complete the picture. The illus- 
tration No. 2 I will give some idea of this wonderful piece. 

No. 22. BACCHANTE. 
A DANCING girl with cymbals. The pose is very graceful and natural. Two 
pearls form the breasts, which are partially concealed by the flowing robe. 

No. 23. POUTER PIGEONS. 
A GROUP of pouter pigeons, in which the pearl formation is uncommonly well 
adapted to the subject. The largest bird is almost entirely formed of pearl in very 
bold relief. 

No. 24. ZINGARA. 
T..E figure in this shell represents a dancing girl with a tambourine The 
draperies are painted in color, and the figure outlined on the shell. The breasts 
stand in relief, and are formed by remarkable twin pearls. 



No. 25. WHALE. 

A WHALE swimming in the ocean. A large pearl of great beauty suggested 
this subject. The addition of the waves was alone needed to complete the picture. 



No. 26. MERMAN. 

A MERMAN blowing a blast on a large sea-shell, which he uses as a horn. 
The entire body of the figure, and the rocks projecting out of the sea, are pearl 
formations. 

No. 27. MERMAID. 

A MERMAID seated on a strange sea-monster with a dolphin's head and a 
long serpentine tail. A pair of pearls form the breasts of the graceful figure of 
the sea nymph. 



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